Tilos is known for being a great place for birdwatchers (which we are not) and hikes (which we enjoy). It is a small island with only a couple towns. The biggest by far is Livadia, the port town, where we stayed.
We arrived in Livadia quite late at night and walked along the beach to Pavlos Rooms. The next morning, we picked up some fruit, biscuits, and water at the local supermarket and began our hike to Lethra Beach.
Lethra is quite secluded and we had it entirely to ourselves for a couple hours (with two or three other couples stopping by for a swim). We had planned to hike back through the mainland and see the gorge, but the path wasn’t very clear and we had no map (I would make a point of getting a good one – or a book of hiking routes – before returning to the island, as the tourist office didn’t have much) so we headed back the way we’d come. Once in Livadia again we had tasty meatballs and dolmadakia at OmonOia and went back to our room to work.
The next day we had coffee and pastries at a café and then took the bus to Agios Pandeleimonas, which was a smaller monastery than the one in Symi but still nice to have seen. After this, we went to Eristos beach (it’s also possible to hike there from the monastery) and returned to the port for dinner.
In the morning, we had coffee in Megalo Chorio but didn’t make it all the way up the mountain to the castle. After lunch in Livadia at Armenon, and then playing cards and snacking on watermelon (very sweetly provided by the owner of the studios where we were staying) on the beach, it was time to go to Nisyros.