Volcanic Nisyros and touristy Kos
Although it’s small, Nisyros probably deserves more than a paragraph, but we were only there for two days and spent the second one working.
After this, we asked the bus to drop us off (on most Greek islands, you can request specific unplanned stops if they fall along the route) in tiny Emborios. We had a lovely lunch at Ampia Taverna and then lasted about two minutes in the natural sauna at the edge of the village.
After missing the bus (there were only two a day), we did a combination of walking and hitchhiking back to Mandraki, the main port (small but pretty). Then we were off to Kos.
Kos is the second most popular island in the Dodecanese after Rhodes (mainly because of its beaches and nightlife, although some of the mountain villages are also supposed to be very pretty), but we were only stopping there as a means of getting to Leros so we didn’t see much. The fortress and smaller streets near the harbour were pleasant to walk around, but most of Kos Town was overpriced and advertised ice cream and hamburgers – it felt much less ‘Greek’ than the other islands we had been to. However, the studio apartments where we stayed (in Lambi) were fantastic value for money and the staff were incredibly friendly. So stay at Manine Apartments if you are ever in Kos!
We were in Kos for one full day, and used it to see the old fortress and visit Therma, the thermal springs on the beach. They’re worth a trip, but they’re not very clean because so many people go there, and the surrounding area is filled with signs advertising donkey rides, massages, and snacks. It might be best to go by car in the early morning.
On our return to Kos Town, we had an excellent lunch at Elia (lamb in tomato and cinnamon sauce and drunken pork) before heading back to Lambi.
The next day, we took the ferry to Leros, the last Dodecanese island of our trip.